Crinan Canal

Our passage through the Crinan Canal, which divides the Kintyre peninsula from the mainland, took only a few days from Ardrishaig to Crinan. It was quite a change to be motoring along a narrow road-like canal at a steady 3 or 4 knots, with no need to think about tidal streams, heights of tide, or conditions for anchoring. A bit like being on a conveyor belt. Working our way up through the locks was also a new experience, but something we got to grips with fairly quickly. The canal staff are all very friendly and there are often a few people around to help out if necessary, but we worked out a routine to lock in and lock out and were able to manage with just the two of us. Many of the locks are unattended, and all manually operated, so quite a bit of effort can be required to swing the huge levers which open the gates after winding up the sills. Once inside, the lower gates are closed again, and then the sills on the upper gates are opened slowly to flood the lock. I did all the lock work while Jaime remained aboard, manouvering the boat in and out, and adjusting the mooring ropes as the water level rises. Once the lock is fully flooded, the upper gates are opened and the boat can motor out and continue the canal 2 or 3 metres higher up.

Ardrishaig Basin

Ardrishaig

Lady Ayesha in the lock

After Ardrishaig we made a quick visit to Lochgilphead to buy provisions and visited the butcher's shop where we got hold of a haggis, freshly caught that morning, according to the butcher, who like many of his profession, fancied himself as a bit of a comedian. We weren't to be fooled. Also bought some local kippers, known as smokies, which were very tasty. That evening was spent at Cairnbaan, tied to a pontoon. There's not much at Cairnbaan, except for a hotel and a few houses. But atop the surrounding hills are numerous ancient stone markings, their meanings unknown, and so the viewer can invent all sorts of theories to explain their presence. There are many known as Cup and Rings, aswell as long intersecting lines. Perhaps they indicate tribal boundaries or ceremonial places, or they may have astrological or religious significance. No doubt some will even claim they are evidence of UFO landings in previous millennia due to the many 'saucer shapes'! I suspect most are no more than idle graffiti, or artistic doodles. But who can tell. This part of the country is covered in these things and we saw many more along the way

Cup and Rings

...and lines

Our second canal evening was spent enjoying the late sunshine near the lock at Dunardry on the 'downhill' stretch. Jaime even got the hammock out, and somehow managed to rig it up on the spinnaker pole to enjoy the last of the afternoon rays, which at this time of year means up to about 10pm.

Dunardry

Smokies

On Saturday we arrived at lock 14, above Crinan Basin. Modern toilets, showers and waste bins are provided all along the canal, which was a welcome change. We visited the hotel bar at Crinan, and drank a few pints with some of the locals, including one chap who came aboard the next morning to give me a hand fixing a small diesel leak on the fuel pump outlet that had been needing attention. Very much appreciated, and he refused payment of any kind. I had suspected I may need to get an engineer in, always an expensive option, so I was really glad to get it sorted out for nothing. In the ongoing broken windlass saga, I managed to contact SL Spares at Paisley who agreed to have a look at it for me, so I will need to send it to them next time I find a post office. It rained all day Sunday so we stayed aboard, reading mostly. I've never had so much time to read and we've both been consuming books at an incredible rate. Always on the lookout for book-swaps and charity shops. By Monday the rain had reduced to intermittent drizzle and so we did a long walk in the nearby forests, and climbed to the top of Castle Dounie, which is little more than a pile of stones on a high peak which provides a magnificent view up and down the Sound of Jura. Along the lower grassy and mossy woods we discovered huge fragrant patches of wild garlic and picked some to cook with that evening. On Wednesday morning we finally had better weather and made it through the final lock out of the fresh waters of the canal and into the brine again!

Crinan Basin

View from Crinan Hotel

Crinan Harbour

Wild Garlic

Wild Garlic Bread!

Locking out into Crinan Basin